By Andrew Hamlin
NORTHWEST ASIAN WEEKLY

Migaku Inaba. Courtesy of Migaku Inaba.
Are master chefs born, or made?
In the case of sushi chef Migaku Inaba, who came across the ocean to practice in Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood, his early childhood argues for nature—with some help from nurture.
“I was born in Kawazu Town, Kamo District, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan,” remembers the chef, who cooks at the new Migaku restaurant on Ballard’s 15th Avenue. “The abundant nature and beautiful seasons of this area have been the foundation of my sensibilities. My earliest memories are of summers spent with family and relatives, gathering around the table, where I first experienced the warmth and connection that food can bring to people.”
“My earliest memory of food is the everyday meals my mother cooked,” Inaba continued. “Her dishes were simple yet comforting and left a deep impression on me. They were not merely sustenance, but meals that nourished the soul. This realization was my first encounter with the emotional power of food.”
He decided on his career in kindergarten, but it was some years later before he met his most important teachers. At the age of 18, Inaba said, he officially began his training in Japanese cuisine, studying under Taisuke Moriya, an honorary instructor of the Japanese Culinary Research Association. Inaba said that Moriya taught him the importance of reflecting the seasons in his dishes.
Later, Inaba trained with Fumio Miura, another research association instructor, who emphasized “listening to the voice of the ingredients,” and maximizing their potential. These lessons, Inaba said, have been pivotal in shaping his culinary philosophy.
Inaba ran a Kawazu Town restaurant for a time, putting into practice the lessons he’d learned. He created meals as not merely meals, but a means to crafting a culinary story, featuring the ingredients, but also the seasons of the year, and the culture of the whole.
In August 2024, Inaba moved to Seattle. He has never lived in any other American city, but he remarked that Seattle’s multicultural environment allows him to explore how food can bridge cultures.
Since moving to the city, he’s settled into his presentation of sushi kaiseki cuisine.
Courtesy of Migaku Inaba.
“Sushi kaiseki is a sophisticated art form that combines the craftsmanship of sushi with the seasonal beauty of Japanese cuisine,” Inaba said. “It’s about drawing out the inherent charm of each ingredient and presenting it as part of a harmonious dining experience. Every dish is designed to stimulate all the senses—sight, smell, and taste—making it a more immersive and complex experience than simple sushi. It requires creativity, technical skill, and an eye for detail.”
But beyond exact timing and temperature control, Inaba said, “The real challenge lies in conveying the essence of Japanese culture through food and creating moments that resonate deeply with guests.”
“It’s about crafting dishes that touch their hearts and leave a lasting impact,” Inaba emphasized. “To overcome this challenge, I immerse myself in local culture, engage with people, and continually refine my approach.”
While with the organization Shōwakai, Migaku’s hard work earned him the the Minister of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries Award from the Japanese government, given for his contribution to the export of Japanese food overseas.
“It’s encouraging to see that nigiri sushi (the presentation of oval-shaped rice mounds with fish on top) is gaining recognition and appreciation in Seattle,” Inaba said. “However, I feel that the local sushi scene could better utilize regional ingredients. This presents an exciting opportunity to develop a sushi culture that integrates local flavors while respecting traditional Japanese techniques.”
And, he said, he’s happy to work where he works.
“Ballard’s natural beauty reminds me of the Izu Peninsula, where I grew up, with its abundance of seafood and mountain produce,” Inaba recalled. “The warmth of the community is deeply inspiring. Hearing customers say, ‘Welcome to Ballard,’ fills me with joy and motivates me to give my best every day.”
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