By Nina Huang
NORTHWEST ASIAN WEEKLY
Executive chef Kaoru Chang doesn’t have to choose between being Chinese, Japanese, or Peruvian. At his newest restaurant, La Mar Bellevue, every dish reflects all three cultures—a culinary story rooted in generations of immigration and shaped by his own family’s sacrifices and journey.
Kaoru Chang
Born in Lima to a third-generation Chinese father and third-generation Japanese mother, Chang spent his childhood surrounded by the flavors that would later define his cooking. After leaving Peru at age 13, he lived in the Dominican Republic and England before eventually settling in Miami more than two decades ago.
“I always loved cooking and being in the kitchen, so I thought I might as well do what I love,” he said.
Cooking had always been a part of his life. Several uncles on his mother’s side owned restaurants, and, as a teenager, washing dishes in their kitchens became his punishment whenever he misbehaved. What started as discipline eventually became inspiration.
He initially took an interest in economics and mechanical engineering, but realized it wasn’t his true passion.
After attending Le Cordon Bleu in Miami, Chang launched his culinary career at Nobu, where he spent seven years refining his Japanese techniques and helping open restaurants, including Nobu Mexico. He later served as corporate chef for Juvia Miami Beach before joining Acurio International in late 2023 to lead the culinary team at La Mar Bellevue.
“I grew up eating this food, so when I got the chance to work for this company, I was honored to do it,” he said.
This is the first time in his career that Chang is getting to cook with these familiar flavors.
Those flavors tell a much larger story.
Chinese immigrants arrived in Peru during the 19th century to work on railroads and plantations, adapting familiar cooking techniques with local ingredients. Their influence gave rise to chifa, the distinctive fusion of Chinese and Peruvian cuisine that today includes beloved dishes like chaufa (fried rice) and lomo saltado—stir-fried beef with onions, tomatoes, French fries, and rice.
Japanese immigrants followed in the early 20th century, many from Okinawa, bringing their own culinary traditions. Their emphasis on fresh seafood and delicate preparation helped bring nikkei cuisine to life and transformed ceviche into the dish recognized around the world today. Rather than marinating fish for long periods, chefs began lightly dressing it with fresh lime juice just before serving.
In general, Peruvian cuisine has many Chinese and Japanese influences and it’s the food he grew up with. Ingredients like ají panca (Peruvian red pepper), ají amarillo (Peruvian yellow pepper) blended with Asian flavors like soy sauce and oyster sauce were familiar flavors.
“It’s good that I have a little bit of both sides so I can identify with both sides. Being Asian in a Latin country sometimes can be challenging,” he shared. “But you know what they say, what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger. That’s what people who migrate to another country have to go through. For better or for worse, I wouldn’t change it for anything. It’s shaped me and made me a strong person and I always look at the glass half full—there’s always good coming from any situation,” he said.
Despite being only one of three Asian kids in his school growing up, Chang is proud of where he comes from. He’s proud of his different cultures that he can relate to and very fond of Peruvian culture as well.
His parents have been a true inspiration. He doesn’t take their sacrifices for granted. He acknowledged everything they did for him and his brother to have a better life.
Part of Chang’s mission with La Mar Bellevue is to bring more Peruvian dishes into the limelight so people can understand, learn about, and appreciate the food and culture.
“The ambassador of our company always said that one day, Peruvian ceviche would be known around the world,” Chang said. “That has been accomplished. Now the second wave is making
Peruvian food known around the world.”
Tiradito is sashimi-style ceviche and Chang said that represents his type of skills well, though lomo saltado and chaufa also represent his style of cooking.
Chang says coming to the greater Seattle area from Miami has been a healthy lifestyle change.
He has really enjoyed his family life here in the Pacific Northwest with his wife and 16-month-old daughter.
Chang said bringing the restaurant to Bellevue was a natural fit because of the region’s cultural diversity and an opportunity to introduce more people to Peruvian cuisine, which remains relatively uncommon in the greater Seattle area.
“La Mar Bellevue is a restaurant that brings Peruvian food to another level. We try to make it right and make it the most authentic possible, but at the same time, we’re here to make it better and improve,” Chang said.
Chang recommends first-time visitors try the restaurant’s ceviche, lomo saltado, and arroz con mariscos, a seafood rice dish influenced by Spanish cooking traditions.
During the Independence Day celebration, guests sampled a buffet featuring traditional Peruvian favorites, including ceviche, chicharrón, a crispy pork belly served with sweet potatoes, onion salad, and Peruvian sausage. Chang noted the crispy pork belly is reminiscent of Chinese barbecue and reflects yet another example of cultures blending together. Chang said that the Peruvians have adapted it and one of the most recognizable and best chiccaron restaurants in Peru is called Chinito.
Donned in red to celebrate the Peruvian flag, Jennifer Ramirez attended the celebration with her parents, siblings, boyfriend, and sister’s boyfriend. Originally from Chimbote, Peru, Ramirez and her siblings were born in Japan before their family later relocated. She described La Mar Bellevue’s offerings as an authentic, elevated representation of Peruvian cuisine.
Janette Lau, who recently moved to Seattle from Vancouver, attended after being invited by a foodie friend. Having visited Lima about eight years ago, she said the ceviche reminded her of the meals she enjoyed during her travels. She also shared a personal connection to Peru: Decades ago, her great-granduncle first stopped there after emigrating from Guangzhou, China, becoming the first member of her family to establish roots in the Americas.
Honduras native Sherlyn Santos celebrated her second anniversary with her boyfriend from Puerto Rico. Her Peruvian coworker introduced her to La Mar Bellevue and after visiting the restaurant for the first time, she was eager to return and introduce her boyfriend to the delicious food. The ceviche, seafood dishes, and pisco sour reminded Santos of flavors she grew up with back home.
For Chang, moments like those are the greatest recognition.
“The best compliment is seeing somebody take that first bite and seeing the emotion on their face,” he said.
Nina can be reached at newstips@nwasianweekly.com.
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