By Becky Chan
NORTHWEST ASIAN WEEKLY
This was not a normal day. Not for me, not for the U.S. of A in the FIFA World Cup.
Last week, I watched the U.S. beat Bosnia-Herzegovina with friends at a pub in north Seattle, spotting a local Asian American TV reporter also enjoying the game with his friends. We had plenty of room. The food was so, so. Earlier, I failed to get into my favorite soccer bar near my house, where I also watch the Seahawks. To no surprise, it was packed. A line of fair weather soccer fans snaking by the front door looking down at their phones. I should’ve known. I told myself, next game I will get there two hours earlier, instead of one.
Then I read in this very paper that Chinatown-International District (CID) was having a watch party at Hing Hay Park. To the dismay of the businesses in the historical district, the CID had not benefitted from the World Cup crowd. Chinatown-International District Business Improvement Area (CIDBIA) stepped up to bring customers into the area. They would host the “Kick It in the CID,” a free watch party. I had been avoiding downtown during the World Cup. I know when it’s game day to stay local. BUT…what better way to support my community and my team at the same time.
I decided that if I were going towards CID, I might as well immerse myself in the whole experience. I would march and veer off on Jackson. Should I bike down? The light rail experienced the highest ridership in the last few weeks. Last time I went to a Sounders game, it took me several trains to get home. But I wanted to be mobile and not burdened with a bike. To the light rail station I went.
Photo by Becky Chan
The platform was packed with people in various forms of red, white, and blue. There was a sprinkle of Belgium gear. They were clearly outnumbered and, maybe, intimidated?
People! We need to learn to ride these trains on game days. If there were seats in a crowded train, no need to be polite. Sit down and save the standing space for others. Please don’t stand by the door. Move in so others can get in. You’re getting off in three stops? We’ll let you out. I noticed people have learned, at least, to stand off to the right on the escalator allowing those late to their therapy appointments to rush by.
The train arrived. I saw the space in one of the cars and darted towards those doors following a burly guy. We both got in. I told him to keep moving. He did. And I stood face to face with two women dressed to fight Belgium. Their clear bags gave it away. They had tickets. One of them commented about the crowded train, “You don’t have to worry about falling.” The fact that she could breathe and talk, she’s obviously never been on a train in Japan.
Several young men conversed loudly over the crowd. Not sure if the excitement of the game gave them the courage or was it their breakfast beverage? At one point, they broke out in song. Yes, that song.
I got off at Symphony station and walked towards Harbor Steps. A sea of red, white, and blue filled all the steps, all the way to the waterfront. There were more people than at the Super Bowl parade back in February. I love how sports brings people together, cheering for the same team, or not. I met people from Ohio, Kentucky, and San Diego, all in Seattle for the first time. It didn’t matter where we came from.
Western Avenue was the parade route. You couldn’t possibly fit another person there. I watched the Seattle firefighters sitting in a parked rig watching the crowd. They were not needed, yet.
I walked towards Jackson, along First Avenue with a Statue of Liberty and a bald eagle. And there were many with U.S. flags caped over their shoulders. I found a red balloon and added it to my free “Futbol” scarf.
I got to Hing Hay Park just before 4 p.m., the opening hour of the watch party. Black plastic stools, like the ones you see on food streets in Asia, scattered in front of the giant screen. A few were already occupied. The huge tree near the ping pong table side of the park had a ring of people sharing the shade.There was still plenty of prime space to choose from. I went straight to the red arch also in the shade, grabbing the space on the concrete planter barriers with a clear side view of the screen, ensuring enough space for a couple of friends to join me later. A woman on my right had already planted herself there, playing games on her phone. There was a young family to my left. The mother was nursing her baby, while her husband was going back and forth to her and to the baby stroller squarely in front of the screen in the sun.
Hunger pangs started to hit me while I waited. I should have stopped to get food first instead of rushing to get to the park. Isn’t that the whole idea? To patronize the businesses in CID? I asked the woman on my right to save my space when I was gone. She asked me to get her some water. To Dimsum King I went. The choices were limited because it was already late in their day. I got some siu mai and red bean sesame balls. I rushed over to the grocery store next door to get the water. The streets were filled with people. I better get back to my seat.
Photo by Becky Chan
The park began to fill up. I watched the organizer bring out more stools. A couple of the musicians from the American Outlaws, the group that supports the U.S. men’s and women’s national soccer teams, still carrying their instruments, were looking for seats. The Outlaws also led the march from Harbor Steps. I was curious to see them here because the march ended at the stadium. Did they hear the news about CID and came to support the community?
It was beginning to get crowded. Three guys stood in the dirt of the planter between me and the arch. More people thought that was a great vantage point and they joined in. They were careful to avoid stepping on the plants. A wall of people gathered underneath the red arch.
Photo by Becky Chan
A young couple who painted themselves red, white, and blue, took over the top of the recycling and trash bins. They began to chant, “USA! USA! USA!”
The crowd was raucous but well behaved.
The crowd booed FIFA President Giovanni Vincenzo when he was on the screen. Every time. The live stream began and the nearby stadium broke out in song. Yes, that song. Of course, we joined in.
The organizer brought out more stools and apologized for not having enough.
The young man behind me wondered aloud if we would be able to see the flyover. And then we heard the roar above us. The crowd erupted in unison.
When the National Anthem was played, some sang loudly and patriotically. Some mouthed the words. Everyone stood.
Belgium scored first. There was still plenty of time left. When Malik Tillman, the U.S.’s midfielder, scored a free kick to tie the game—a historic feat to score twice with a free kick in the same World Cup—we thought we had a chance, until Belgium answered again within 90 seconds. You could sense the deflation in the crowd. The red balloon I got from the march popped. Back to square one.
You know the results. My friends and I made it out of the park at the end of the game. The streets were strewn with dejected fans who were hungry for the same. We needed some comfort food—Mike’s Noodle House.
“We are closed,” the shopkeeper said to us. We looked at the hours posted. They closed at 7 p.m. Apparently they didn’t need to capitalize on the event.
Luckily, we were able to grab a last table in another restaurant nearby. By the time our food came, there was a waiting list at this restaurant. I looked out the window in between bites of baby bok choi and saw the crowd overflowing the sidewalks.
I’ve never seen this many people in CID. Every restaurant had people inside, some outside, waiting to be served. Although the U.S. lost the game, I believe CID won today.
More watch parties are scheduled, the next one is a quarterfinal match on July 10.
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